Master the art of drafting a basic bodice block!
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Basic Bodies Block Tutorial
- Purpose of the Tutorial
- Required Materials
- Measurements for Front Pattern
- Measurements for Back Pattern
- Creating the Chest Line
- Creating the Armhole Curve
- Adding the Waistline and Bust Line
- Truing the Pattern
- Adding Seam Allowances
- Front Pattern
- Back Pattern
- Conclusion
Basic Bodies Block Tutorial
In this tutorial, I will teach You how to Create a basic bodies block. This block is the foundation for many garment Patterns, making it an essential part of your sewing repertoire. By following these instructions, you will learn the step-by-step process of creating a perfectly fitting bodice pattern tailored to your unique measurements. This tutorial is designed with beginners in mind, so don't worry if you're new to sewing!
Purpose of the Tutorial
The purpose of this tutorial is to provide a detailed explanation of how to make a basic bodies block. While there are many existing tutorials on this topic, I have modified the pattern to make it simpler and more beginner-friendly. By following along with this video tutorial, you will be able to create a basic bodies block that fits you perfectly, even if you have little to no prior sewing experience.
Required Materials
Before starting the tutorial, make sure you have the following materials:
- Pattern paper
- Scissors
- Pen or marker
- Measuring tape
- French curve
- Ruler
These basic sewing tools are essential for accurately measuring and marking your pattern. Having these materials on HAND will make the process much smoother and more enjoyable.
Measurements for Front Pattern
To begin, you will need to take a few measurements to create the front pattern. The measurements you will need are:
- Shoulder width: Measure the distance between the outer edge of one shoulder to the outer edge of the other shoulder.
- Bust Point: Measure the distance from the shoulder seam to the fullest part of your bust.
- Half length for the front: Measure the distance from the shoulder seam to the desired length of the bodice.
- Bust circumference: Measure the fullest part of your bust.
- Waist circumference: Measure the narrowest part of your waist.
Once you have these measurements, you can start marking them on your pattern paper to create the front pattern.
Measurements for Back Pattern
The back pattern will have similar measurements to the front pattern, with a few key differences. The measurements you will need for the back pattern are:
- Shoulder width: Same as the front pattern.
- Half length for the back: Measure the distance from the shoulder seam to the desired length of the bodice.
- Bust circumference: Same as the front pattern.
- Waist circumference: Same as the front pattern.
As with the front pattern, mark these measurements on your pattern paper to create the back pattern.
Creating the Chest Line
The chest line is an important reference point for creating the bodice block. It runs horizontally across the pattern, just below the bust. To determine the position of the chest line, you can use a formula Based on your bust circumference. Divide your bust circumference by six, then add 1.5 inches. Alternatively, you can use the same shoulder width measurement and add one inch to estimate the chest line position.
Creating the Armhole Curve
The armhole curve is another critical element of the bodice block. To create the armhole curve, take the measurement of the armhole line (the distance from the shoulder seam to the underarm), divide it by two, and mark the midpoint. From this midpoint, come inward by 0.75 inches on the front pattern and 0.5 inches on the back pattern. Connect these points to create the armhole curve using a French curve or a freehand curve.
Adding the Waistline and Bust Line
Next, you will add the waistline and bust line to the pattern. The waistline is determined by dividing your waist circumference by four and marking it on the pattern. Make sure to add a one-inch notch at the waistline for seam allowance. For the bust line, mark half of your bust span measurement on the pattern, which is the distance from one nipple to the other. Add one inch to each side of the bust line for seam allowance.
Truing the Pattern
Truing the pattern ensures that all the lines and contours of the pattern are smooth and accurately aligned. To true the pattern, measure the width of the Dart leg and mark the center. Connect this center point to the bust point and extend it slightly. Use a tracing wheel to transfer this line to the other side of the dart leg. Repeat the process for the back pattern. This step will help to ensure that the front and back patterns align properly when sewn together.
Adding Seam Allowances
Finally, you will add seam allowances to your basic bodies block. For the front pattern, you will add a half-inch seam allowance to the neckline, shoulder line, and armhole curve. On the side of the pattern, add a one-inch seam allowance. Remember not to add any seam allowance to the center front line, as it will be on the fold. Repeat the same process for the back pattern. It is important to note that if you plan to make alterations to the pattern, such as adding darts or style lines, you may choose not to add seam allowances until after the modifications are complete.
In conclusion, creating a basic bodies block is the first step in garment construction. By following this tutorial, you have learned how to take accurate measurements, mark a pattern, and add seam allowances. With your newly created bodice pattern, you can now experiment with different designs and styles, confident in the knowledge that your pattern will fit you perfectly.
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